I began stitching the second shoe on Friday night and took some pictures. As soon as I get all the way around I will take pictures of the meeting up of the upper edges and sewing on the heel stiffener. I did not sew the stiffener on first after all as I wanted to make sure I had it in the right place and since sewing can adjust this area, I thought I would just suffer and sew it on after the shoe is constructed.
The sole and upper are tacked to the last and the first stitch is begun. (Note that the toe of the sole dips a bit. This is because the person who cut out the sole didn’t cut it the same as the wooden foot piece on the stitching last.)
I should have shot this with the needles in the picture. I have threaded a long piece of waxed linen onto two long blunt needles, one on each end, and inserted the thread into the first hole. This allows you to sew up a seam with both needles creating a seam that is very strong and double sewn.
This shot is not mine but it illustrates very well how the hole is a slanted and the awl/needle comes out the side of the sole leather, not through top and bottom. But top and side.
First needle goes in
Second needle into the SAME hole. This allows a very secure stitch. The stitching line looks the same on the sole as it does the upper because of this method.
You can see how I’m easing the rounded toe around the toe of the sole. You need to take up a little extra each time in this spot. It doesn’t not look gathered when turned right side out nor does it cause any discomfort.
Stay tuned for Part 3