I didn’t think to take the camera home this week to take pictures of the construction phase of the shoes I’m making. But I did take pictures of the elements necessary and what some aspects look like finished. This Friday evening I will be putting together the right shoe and taking pictures of that process. It is my hope that I will have a new medieval turnshoe demo on The Medieval Tailor some time next week.
I took a class in May of this year on how to construct the shoes. The instructor provided us with a stitching last (not to be confused with a full foot replica wooden last) . This is a very interesting contraption and easy to make if you have the proper saw for cutting out the foot shape. The foot shape is made from a tracing of my foot.
(click all images to enlarge)
My tool, a hole punch for leather, each black bit being a different size round punch.
He also provided the awl, the pliers, the waxed linen thread, the finger saver, thumbtacks, and two blunt sewing needles. The finger saver, the little wooden piece at the bottom of the picture, has a slit in the end. When you prepare to punch a hole into the sole and the upper in order to sew them together, you put the finger saver on the side the awl will come out so that the tip of the awl goes into the slit instead of your finger. Finger Saver. Heh. Hi tech sawed off broom handle. There is a third smaller needle. This is a leather sewing needle, very sharp triangular point that I supplied and used to stitch on the heel stiffener.
We first made a pattern out of paper, wrapping it around our foot and marking where to cut. We transfered that to a heavy duty fabric, tested the cut marks again. I used this red piece to cut my leather uppers. Don’t forget to flip over for the second upper. Doh! I used my boo piece (two left feet) to make my latchet pieces and heel stiffeners later so it wasn’t wasted but let me tell you, I understand nap. It was an embarrassing moment. I gave the instructor extra money to make up for my mistake.
Here are all the pieces that make up one shoe. The thick leather sole, the leather upper, and the heel stiffener.
This picture shows the heel stiffener sewn in. I put it in after I constructed the shoe and think that I will do it before next time to see which method I like better. It was difficult to sew on a completed shoe, it kept shifting and because it was on a curve it buckles a bit when turned right side out. It does its job however, and that’s all it needs to do. And it’s comfortable.
The inside of the shoe showing the latchets. Latchets are cut pieces of leather that work as closures or buckles. You can also see the seam where the upper meets the sole. The upper folds up from the sewn seam but doesn’t create an uncomfortable seam because it is not higher than the sole. This will become clear when I get the construction images and discussion online.
This shows the complete shoe but you can also see the stitching line on the sole. I was a bit disappointed with the way the instructor cut my soles. They are wider at the toes than the stitching last and my own foot and give this shoe a duck foot appearance. It should be a bit more pointy. You can just barely see the molded impression that my foot has already begun to make from trying on. It does not match the shape of shoe. A little sad as I love the green but I’m glad I’m learning so much.
Luckily I have some lovely brown leather and more sole leather so I can make more just the way I want. Many more because that stitching last is so darned simple to make. Not having a last to sew up your shoe is what stops more people from doing this because the construction of the shoe itself is darned easy once you see the steps.
Latchet and lacing holes. I put in more than I needed. I would have spaced four pairs of holes differently and not so close to the ground if I’d known what I know now.
The u-shaped leather piece is a latchet. They can have as many as 6 or even 8 “spokes,” they can be loose like this, sewn on, buckled, tied, and much cheaper than fabricated metal buckles in medieval times.
The latchet inserted into the two pairs of lacing holes. BTW, the lacing holes are simply punched. They are not finished, standard practice.
The latchet and side opening pulled tight
The latchet tied off. I didn’t need the bottom holes and when I did put a latchet into them, it dragged on the ground. Lesson learned.
I think the sewing construction took me a couple hours and that was first time ever.
Very very cool. I’m hoping to finish a pair of chopines for 12th night which is a different process, but I’ve always wanted to play more with period shoes. 🙂
I still need to make myself a pair of slippers to go inside the chopines as well.
Awesome. Period shoe goodness all around!!!!