This is the beginnings of a 12-13th century long tunic for a woman. The fabrics are linen blends, the blue is linen/rayon and the brocade is linen/cotton. It’s next to impossible to find a period brocade in the fabric stores today and if you can chances are you just can’t afford it. Here is an image of some lampas cloth. And another from the Ghenghis Khan exhibit at the Met. Note the repeated geometric motifs, crosses, fleurs, etc. The 6 petaled flower is a bit off but in period it would have been similar and been known as a sexfoil. This was an excellent substitute because of the separate motifs and their repetition. I considered dying it to give it a more period color scheme but decided I was too lazy, it was too messy, and that all anyone will typically see are the sleeve cuffs and neckline as I will generally be wearing a tunic over this undergown. So there.
Something like this… In fact I kind of like this better, maybe next time.
The embroidery is either stem stitch or outline stitch. Yes, there is a difference between the two. Stem stitch makes a more ropey line where you can see the twist of the thread and outline stitch is a very smooth line and twist disappears.
I was going along with my stitching, the dark blue and gold, but it just wasn’t calling me. I added the metal pieces and it was better. My big black funk (BBF) began around this time so I put it away for the summer. When I picked it up again I started putting colors next to it for the next stage and bright yellow said, “pick me!” It started to pop. But I felt I needed something more. And I can tell you that the red was really my last choice. I tried greens, other yellows, purple, black, white, but the red just did something that made me go “oooooh.” It goes against my modern sensibilities to use a dark red against a light blue but I think this is a perfect period choice and I’m very pleased with the final results. All I have to do now is sew the garment pieces together.
The middle image is closest to actual colors on my monitor.
(click to make images larger)
Oooh, and a cool new site that has little video demos on how to do certain embroidery stitches
Stitch Witch Cottage 
Ooooh, it’s lovely!!! I really like the fabrics too. I have always thought that if someone had Chinese fabric connections there would be a nice niche market for medieval recreation patterned silks. I managed to find a lovely silk with roundels with small horse archers inside of them (perfect!) made up into a cocktail dress at a thrift store. I have no idea where it originated, perhaps Hong Kong, but someone, somewhere has produced something that would be oh so useful.
In PDX there is a high end decorator’s store and I have said I would bring in some photocopies of period type weaves and perhaps she might order some if she saw them.
Always scheming, I am 😀
oooh roundels with horse archers? I’m pea green! Scheme away and invite me…