Author Archives: Cynthia

Unknown's avatar

About Cynthia

I am a textile artist, embroiderer, wood burner, costumer, painter, and weaver who sees magic and change in the chain stitch and a well done Palestrina knot. I wish I had more control over the ways of the human world but alas, all I can control are my actions and my attitude in life and the consistency of my stitches. And sometimes even that doesn’t pan out as hoped and I must rip rip rip.

More Shoe Stuff – Part 2

Posted on by
Reply

I began stitching the second shoe on Friday night and took some pictures. As soon as I get all the way around I will take pictures of the meeting up of the upper edges and sewing on the heel stiffener. I did not sew the stiffener on first after all as I wanted to make sure I had it in the right place and since sewing can adjust this area, I thought I would just suffer and sew it on after the shoe is constructed.

The sole and upper are tacked to the last and the first stitch is begun. (Note that the toe of the sole dips a bit. This is because the person who cut out the sole didn’t cut it the same as the wooden foot piece on the stitching last.)

I should have shot this with the needles in the picture. I have threaded a long piece of waxed linen onto two long blunt needles, one on each end, and inserted the thread into the first hole. This allows you to sew up a seam with both needles creating a seam that is very strong and double sewn.

Poking the stitch hole into the sole and through the upper. Finger Saver in place, you can see the point of the awl and why this is such a handy tool.

This shot is not mine but it illustrates very well how the hole is a slanted and the awl/needle comes out the side of the sole leather, not through top and bottom. But top and side.

First needle goes in

Second needle into the SAME hole. This allows a very secure stitch. The stitching line looks the same on the sole as it does the upper because of this method.

You can see how I’m easing the rounded toe around the toe of the sole. You need to take up a little extra each time in this spot. It doesn’t not look gathered when turned right side out nor does it cause any discomfort.


Stay tuned for Part 3

The embroidery is done

Posted on by
2

This is the beginnings of a 12-13th century long tunic for a woman. The fabrics are linen blends, the blue is linen/rayon and the brocade is linen/cotton. It’s next to impossible to find a period brocade in the fabric stores today and if you can chances are you just can’t afford it. Here is an image of some lampas cloth.  And another from the Ghenghis Khan exhibit at the Met. Note the repeated geometric motifs, crosses, fleurs, etc.  The 6 petaled flower is a bit off but in period it would have been similar and been known as a sexfoil.  This was an excellent substitute because of the separate motifs and their repetition. I considered dying it to give it a more period color scheme but decided I was too lazy, it was too messy, and that all anyone will typically see are the sleeve cuffs and neckline as I will generally be wearing a tunic over this undergown.  So there.

Something like this…  In fact I kind of like this better, maybe next time.

The embroidery is either stem stitch or outline stitch. Yes, there is a difference between the two. Stem stitch makes a more ropey line where you can see the twist of the thread and outline stitch is a very smooth line and twist disappears.

I was going along with my stitching, the dark blue and gold, but it just wasn’t calling me. I added the metal pieces and it was better. My big black funk (BBF) began around this time so I put it away for the summer. When I picked it up again I started putting colors next to it for the next stage and bright yellow said, “pick me!” It started to pop. But I felt I needed something more. And I can tell you that the red was really my last choice. I tried greens, other yellows, purple, black, white, but the red just did something that made me go “oooooh.” It goes against my modern sensibilities to use a dark red against a light blue but I think this is a perfect period choice and I’m very pleased with the final results. All I have to do now is sew the garment pieces together.

The middle image is closest to actual colors on my monitor.

(click to make images larger)

Tension when doing circular motifs can be difficult to control. There is a little puckering but most of this should ease up with steam pressing.

Oooh, and a cool new site that has little video demos on how to do certain embroidery stitches

Shoes shoes shoes

Posted on by
2

I didn’t think to take the camera home this week to take pictures of the construction phase of the shoes I’m making. But I did take pictures of the elements necessary and what some aspects look like finished. This Friday evening I will be putting together the right shoe and taking pictures of that process. It is my hope that I will have a new medieval turnshoe demo on The Medieval Tailor some time next week.

I took a class in May of this year on how to construct the shoes. The instructor provided us with a stitching last (not to be confused with a full foot replica wooden last) . This is a very interesting contraption and easy to make if you have the proper saw for cutting out the foot shape. The foot shape is made from a tracing of my foot.

(click all images to enlarge)

You can see here how it is screwed on to the stand. When I’m done sewing one shoe, I unscrew it, flip it over, screw it back on, and start stitching the second shoe. This shows that I made the left shoe first.

My tool, a hole punch for leather, each black bit being a different size round punch.

He also provided the awl, the pliers, the waxed linen thread, the finger saver, thumbtacks, and two blunt sewing needles. The finger saver, the little wooden piece at the bottom of the picture, has a slit in the end. When you prepare to punch a hole into the sole and the upper in order to sew them together, you put the finger saver on the side the awl will come out so that the tip of the awl goes into the slit instead of your finger. Finger Saver. Heh. Hi tech sawed off broom handle. There is a third smaller needle. This is a leather sewing needle, very sharp triangular point that I supplied and used to stitch on the heel stiffener.

We first made a pattern out of paper, wrapping it around our foot and marking where to cut. We transfered that to a heavy duty fabric, tested the cut marks again. I used this red piece to cut my leather uppers. Don’t forget to flip over for the second upper. Doh! I used my boo piece (two left feet) to make my latchet pieces and heel stiffeners later so it wasn’t wasted but let me tell you, I understand nap. It was an embarrassing moment. I gave the instructor extra money to make up for my mistake.

Here are all the pieces that make up one shoe. The thick leather sole, the leather upper, and the heel stiffener.

This picture shows the heel stiffener sewn in. I put it in after I constructed the shoe and think that I will do it before next time to see which method I like better. It was difficult to sew on a completed shoe, it kept shifting and because it was on a curve it buckles a bit when turned right side out. It does its job however, and that’s all it needs to do. And it’s comfortable.

The inside of the shoe showing the latchets. Latchets are cut pieces of leather that work as closures or buckles. You can also see the seam where the upper meets the sole. The upper folds up from the sewn seam but doesn’t create an uncomfortable seam because it is not higher than the sole. This will become clear when I get the construction images and discussion online.

This shows the complete shoe but you can also see the stitching line on the sole. I was a bit disappointed with the way the instructor cut my soles. They are wider at the toes than the stitching last and my own foot and give this shoe a duck foot appearance. It should be a bit more pointy.  You can just barely see the molded impression that my foot has already begun to make from trying on.  It does not match the shape of shoe. A little sad as I love the green but I’m glad I’m learning so much.

Luckily I have some lovely brown leather and more sole leather so I can make more just the way I want. Many more because that stitching last is so darned simple to make. Not having a last to sew up your shoe is what stops more people from doing this because the construction of the shoe itself is darned easy once you see the steps.

Latchet and lacing holes. I put in more than I needed. I would have spaced four pairs of holes differently and not so close to the ground if I’d known what I know now.

The u-shaped leather piece is a latchet. They can have as many as 6 or even 8 “spokes,” they can be loose like this, sewn on, buckled, tied, and much cheaper than fabricated metal buckles in medieval times.

The latchet inserted into the two pairs of lacing holes. BTW, the lacing holes are simply punched. They are not finished, standard practice.

The latchet and side opening pulled tight

The latchet tied off. I didn’t need the bottom holes and when I did put a latchet into them, it dragged on the ground. Lesson learned.

I think the sewing construction took me a couple hours and that was first time ever.